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Post by ladymcts on Apr 25, 2017 12:15:39 GMT
Ack! Eeek! Splutter! Whathaveidone! More than 10 years of dreaming of my first horse farm, I'm finally under contract for a 10 acre property. Yikes! I had the most patient agent in the world ... we saw 15 properties, and I made offers on two. The first one is what I would still call my love, with the 110% perfect property for me, and I could afford the asking price, but the asking price was insanely over market value. So we even went so far as going a "sit down" with the seller to see if we could come to an agreement if we all just chatted. Nope. It's been on the market for 3 years now (my offer was a year ago) and he finally just lowered the price by a whopping 5%. Yah good luck with that buddy. Basically the dude has "overbuilt" a lovely property in a bad location and has a hard time realizing that. As much as I love it, I don't want to be stuck being under water on a mortgage right from the start with something I can't sell for anything close to what I paid for it. Anyhoo, back to what I did end up with. Closing is estimated late May or early June, depending on when the bank can get their act together. So I hope I'm not jinxing myself by coming in here to ask 4.2 billion questions. FIRST FARM! OH MY!! The house is a 3BR 2BA Manufactured Home. Manufactured wasn't my first choice, but the options are so few around here, that I was willing to at least take a look. It has not one but TWO storm shelters, one below ground and one above ground rated to an F4 tornado, with electric to it. The house actually had a tornado touch down a mile away that took out multiple houses about 2 weeks before I went to see it. I'm hoping that means I'll be protected by the "lightning doesn't strike twice" theory of luck, and say that it won't have any tornados there for a few years at least. Hey, it's luck we're talking about, I can make up whatever luck theory I want! There is a barn that could serve as a vehicle garage or a barn. To me it's kind of oddly set up, with a core center enclosed barn area, but then a "leanto" on each side. The leanto toward the house she was using as parking area for truck and tractor. The leanto away from the house she's been using as run-in for the horses. There is a small paddock area off the barn-with-run-in, and in that area the horses aren't given hay, or are given hay in small bales. Then that opens to a larger paddock area which is set up to offer a round bale and also holds the manure pile. Then there are two pastures. One about 2.5 acres, and one about 5 acres. The smaller one is where she lets the horses out most often, and the larger one is for haying, but she does seem to let them out there some ... it is fully fenced in and I found plenty of poop piles out there. She says she has an agreement with a neighbor to do the haying, and has gotten 27 round bales off it which sounds like more than enough to feed my own critters and then share with the haying neighbor or sell or whatever. There is a carport she's been using for a boat, and would be the perfect size to fit over my trailer if only it were raised by another foot. I'm pretty sure by measuring that I can fit my truck into the barn's fully enclosed area, but if not there's definitely room under the leanto area. Now for some of the disappointing stuff. Once I found the property and decided it was right, I didn't do a lot of nit picking on details, been looking for 1.5 years and this is only the second I felt worth making an offer on, so I'm taking it for what it is. The barn is very well built, a metal clad affair, and my home inspector pointed out several things about it that were done very well or better than average. One case in point was 200amp electrical service to it, and all done with metal sheathing (BX cable I think it's called?) It's got a dirt floor, so between the time I'd made the offer and the time I got to go back for the home inspection, I was dreaming of putting stalls in. However on home inspection day, I was disappointed to find that it's just a tad too small. For my clydesdales, I don't want stalls any smaller than 10x10, and really 12x12 is ideal. Well, one wall is 18 feet with supports at 9 feet apart, so at the very best I could get two 9x9 stalls in there, but that's it. So the barn will have to serve as a garage for now ... unless MAYBE a contractor could reconfigure it, building out one of the leantos and knocking down what's presently a side wall. I have no money for those kinds of changes, so I'll have to make due for a while with what I've got. The second disappointment was fencing. While I feel that clydesdales should ideally be kept in strong fencing, my boys have been kept before in nothing-but-electric, and that's what she has now. The seller also made a point about how she ran the electric down deep underneath the gates so as to not have issues with gaps or breaks in wire above. So between the time I made the offer and the home inspection, I was thinking everything was totally hunky dory. But on home inspection day, I walked the entire fenceline. Not a single T-post has a protective top on it, so I definitely would want to do that. That shouldn't be too expensive, and could be done in a day or two. And what I found at the corners of the pastures was totally awesome - she's installed telephone-pole sized posts, with "wings" so they are are really solid at the corners. But the disappointing thing with fencing was the height of the T-posts. A good number of them were only about 4 feet tall! Some were closer to 5 feet, but I could see the little fins poking out of the ground meaning the seemingly "tall" ones just aren't sunk as deep as they should be. So now I've got it in my head that for my boys' safety I need to at the very least replace the T-posts. Once I think about replacing T-posts, I wonder if maybe I should just go crazy and put in something more solid. Ugh, but then there's $$. What do I want versus what can I afford? Heck, I'm already feeling like I don't have enough money for all the things I'm going to want to get and do. I'm embarrassed to start tossing out numbers because I'm feeling like what I budgeted is way too low. So for this first year, I am hoping to do a bare minimum of hard changes, and "live it" for a while before I do anything too drastic. Well... somehow I've wasted an hour writing up this much and posting pictures. I do have a ton of questions, but this will have to suffice for now. So any comments and impressions and questions from you-all are welcome. :-) s107.photobucket.com/user/lady_mcse/library/Farm |
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Post by horselover4life on Apr 25, 2017 14:16:18 GMT
Ready for a book, here it comes.... 
First off..... C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S.... a new home all your own!!
Manufactured housing is not what it use to be.  That is a good thing!
Totally made in a factory, inside location it is never exposed to weather unfavorable.
Most manufactured housing companies build better than many home site built homes...a few exceptions to that but inspections and codes are strict.
What company built your home?
We looked at many manufactured homes before we bought our land to a requirement of site built home...so I've done some research on how built if you don't know about it yet {you will, you will}
We would of loved a few different manufacturers and layouts,....beautiful and practical they were.
So...the barn...
What is the overall dimensions of that barn you want to put stalls in?
Do you have a barn divided in thirds because of posts? Say a 36' x 36' would be thirds of 12' each part..
First off use what you have and start the improvements slowly and as you can afford...
You have support beams currently, use them.
You have big strong horses...you need extra support beams for walls.
My barn is 12'x12' stalls with support beams every 3'...so end post, middle, middle and end post...
Your dimensions work perfectly actually to do exactly what you want.
Put in posts, sink them 12" or so and then tie them in to the roof rafters and stall wall header.
We did ours this way. I had a Percheron in my stall who kicked the crap out of it till I sent him home after listening for a few hours of non-stop kicking... Never moved the wall nor shifted the dirt away from the posts with how I described the wall reinforcement.
A 9' wall works when you add the 4' or 6' stall door you need for the bigger boys. You may need to move or take down a wall
Your inside dimensions will be true 12'x12'..maybe a slight bit bigger which is not bad.
Remember you can "build" walls with panels like you would use for a round pen with plywood fastened to it if you want leg protection...temporary and usable for other projects but works to separate the boys as needed when needed.
When you have $ to make the real stalls you can start that project.
So, the fence....
Leave what you have for now and add wood p/t posts at a working height.
We used 8' posts with our wood fence, sank 3'+ in the ground..
That allowed us to use 48" horse fence with a solid wood 6" top rail all around.
You might need to prepare for higher fence since I think your boys are bigger than mine.
However... sink some wood posts at the height you will need, then secure that electrified wire to those posts at a higher height where you can.
Add a hard charge and the boys will not tempt fate more than once or twice when they get "reminded" the fence bites!
Over time add more posts and then you can either switch out the actual type of fence or remove those posts that need done.
Buy online those T-post caps you want not in a store to save $$.
If you are not on Tractor Supply email list...join.
Also join the stores savings program...it adds up quick your savings.
TS has coupon sales that I have used when buying much needed supplies...saved hundreds in one shopping spree. Yes, I spent a lot to save that much but still was a greatly needed & appreciated savings to me.
Price matching to localized stores they honor too with a copy of the ad.
Watch their own stores as prices vary between them too I have found, sometimes for A LOT of difference in costs.
So, me...
I would shop around for fence posts. Sometimes buying a larger quantity saves you $$ too.
I use 3"-4" diameter or larger for line posts, my corner posts are the diameter of near telephone poles so no moving of them when you pull hard tension stringing a fence tight do they do...and we use 2 "telephone pole" diameter poles with a narrower brace board between the end pieces so my fence isn't going anyplace to soon either with sag.
Consider renting a farm tractor if you don't have one already with a auger attachment....
We now own a tractor with that auger and it is a back and labor saver many times over... not only puts posts in but we ripped out 130 "old" posts when we needed to reconfigure our fence line.
If you don't have a tractor you can rent them from rental companies and some Home Depot stores.
Plan your work to be done by it ahead so time is utilized and not wasted.
Once the house is ready and you have moved in I would concentrate on the outside fence line so you can get the boys home sooner and they be safe and safely contained where they belong.
Lean-to work just fine for shelter..don't stress that one.
A place to park the truck, the trailer and any farm equipment you currently have....works for me.
A place to call "YOURS", all yours is fantastic.
Enjoy the journey of ownership this new place grants you. 
See, I warned you of a book coming... 
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Post by ladymcts on Apr 25, 2017 17:38:59 GMT
Hey, novels and novellas welcome! I could use all the help I can get! I'm hoping to have some horsey friends over early on so I can get more ideas from those who have "been there done that" already.
Barn - I'm cobbling this together from the Google Aerial map measurements and my tape measure from inside. But the total roof area seems to be 30x50. Divide that into thirds, but not equal thirds. The first space is 20x30 for vehicle parking, open on 2 sides. The second space is the 4 sided interior barn with electric, and that's 20x30. The third space is run-in for horses, 10x30, open on 2 sides. When I held the tape measure up inside, I was getting only 9 feet between supports, which makes sense for that wall being 20 feet along the length I was measuring and where I originally thought I could put two stalls. Going the other direction would be 3 segments of 9 or 10 feet each for a 27-30 foot space. Except that long wall has the door in one corner and electrical with garage door on the other, so not feasible there either. So any way I slice it I don't really see fitting 12x12 stalls in there unless I take down one of the existing barn walls and expand the interior to either a space of either 30x30 (taking up the leanto) or 30x40 (taking up the parking space). Basically I'm thinking that there's probably some pretty good reasons the seller never put in stalls. :-)
Fencing - So you're saying that if I do any post replacing at all, go ahead and make it wood, but perhaps not a 1-1 replacement right off the bat. Put in just enough taller wood posts to run new wire up at the taller height, knowing that the span between them will be greater, but that I still have protection down below with more freuqently spaced shorter T-posts. Is that right?
Either way I've been having trouble with my back lately, so I am most likely not going to be doing any of this work myself. I am thinking of trying to find a fencing contractor. So far from a brief online search I found one an hour away. Surely there's got to be more than that!
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Post by horselover4life on Apr 25, 2017 21:01:33 GMT
If you are at all rural you will have farm supply stores, not a TS but another farm supply store/feed store....
Many of them can give referrals of locals who will do the job at a reasonable cost.
Cash talks and farmers/ranchers can use their equipment to dig post holes when they have "downtime"...
We're coming into summer and long days and nights of light conditions to work by.
I can tell you that horse wire fence and electrical wire and braid from TS is decently priced and good quality...
Same stuff at a Rural King and they are growing in popularity and locations as of late..they also will meet or beat each others prices so watch ads and online carefully.
With the lean-to availability it might be easier to close in 2 stalls.
Even a lower head room the boys will know about and not throw their heads hitting the roof...really, they won't.
As long as they can stand with a natural angle to the neck & head carriage they will be fine...
If the overhang is wide enough you could not only get stalls but also a covered shelter area when you close the stall doors when not in use..
We need some real dimensions to figure this one out along with a better detail drawing of barn layout and where the doors are and electrical panel...
As for "why" the current owner did not make stalls inside...ask.
They have nothing to hide and to share their decisions might save you some aggravation.
 .... the work begins and you haven't even signed on the line yet.Do enjoy!!!
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Post by ladymcts on Apr 26, 2017 12:56:19 GMT
Rural King is what's closest around here. I haven't been over there yet to talk about Fencing, but that's a good idea to start with them. I probably would've started with Lowes or Home Depot out of habit, but I know those would be a) expensive and b) used to residentical fencing, not horse fencing. There's also a feed & tack store that I'll check out. I breifly looked thru their "for sale" bulletin ads the other day mainly looking for equipment (I was thinking tractor). But surely they might have some recommendations or cards for fencing people too. I think I've made up my mind to hold off doing a tractor for the first year, trying to get by as best I can without, by hiring out the mowing and haying, and hoping manure management isn't too horrendous. I'd rather hold off to next Spring and hope for a good used one, spending the time wisely on more research into what I might need, as well as hopefully saving up for it. I remember in grade school we had this logic and problem-solving thing that went something like, "You know you're about to be stranded, and you can only take so many provisions with you. What would you take?" And we'd be given a list of things like compass, hatchet, matches, etc. I feel like I'm being given that task now with the farm ... "You know you're about to buy a farm, so what are the most important things to have?" Here's my list so far ... mainly I want to pick up as much used as possible, so will keep an eye out on Facebook groups and Craigslist for any of these. Tractor I would most likely go thru a real dealer because I'm not good with machinery so I want to make sure I'm starting off with something that's in good shape even if used, and knowing I can take it back for repairs. Tractor Mower Attachment for Tractor  Removal some way, some how ATV - Honda Rincon, Foreman Rubicon, Rancher, Recon Manure Spreader Air Compressor Flatbed Trailer Manure Cart, ATV-Behind Fence Posts Fence Post T-Cap Covers Stalls Leanto Rubber Mats / Mining Belt Washrack / Hot Water Heater Round Pen Tarps Gates And then of course, I get to thinking that with some of this stuff, maybe I should just invest in a harness for the boys ... removal, manure spreading .... Oh Jaaaaacques, Reeeeggieeee ... |
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Post by horselover4life on Apr 26, 2017 13:56:48 GMT
Tractor... This would actually be a must have immediately for me.
Package deals are plentiful everywhere. Google tractor packages with the brand tractor you think you want.
I would go for between 30 - 40 horsepower and 4WD a must.
Add a bucket loader, bush hog for mowing, a post hole digger with a 9" auger.
Many packages include a trailer and a box blade...forget the box blade, honestly for what you will be doing your tractor bucket will suffice.
Box blades are nice if you have great need and use for doing driveway leveling and grading, otherwise not so much.
Removal some way, some how.. Your tractor just met this need for you!
ATV - Honda Rincon, Foreman Rubicon, Rancher, Recon...with a good tractor you can do more than you realize and not have the expense of one of these starting out.
Manure Spreader, Manure Cart, ATV-Behind...this is kind of redundant.
I have a tow behind chain driven manure spreader that was given to me.
Thought I would be using it...nope.
Sits, never used taking up space. I'm going to sell it actually.
The manure cart ... I would use my tractor bucket...it will hold a lot more and no "hands-on" needed to dump the thing.
Those manure carts get heavy fast to lift and dump no matter what is in it.
Air Compressor... buy something large enough to air up your truck and tractor tires along with the horse trailer...80psi minimum!
One like this one in the ad works well and not expensive. www.harborfreight.com/#
Rural King often has air compressors like this on sale too...watch the ads and let your money be spent where it goes furthest.
Fence Posts...Rural King just had a good sale. Sales happen often on many "farm" items. Sign up for their email sales fliers...
Fence Post T-Cap Covers
Stalls
Leanto
Rubber Mats / Mining Belt...Rural King has good sales often..again watch Craigslist for someone selling "used". TS you can buy new for $35.00 for a 4'x6' 3/4" mat..also have smaller ones as those are huge to pull and move yourself, heavy too!
Hot Water Heater..although nice a water bucket heater works too.... www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200513615_200513615
HWH are always on, use a lot of electricity for the few times you need/want them.
Round Pen, Gates... these can be one in the same, depending upon need.
Shop around and do search on craigslist for manufacturers in your area to save you much!
I prefer round frame bars versus flat bar gates with a wire mesh in the bottom third of the gate...keeps my dogs from where they should not be and the neighbors dogs from my horses feet getting kicked.
I use "gates" as my stall doors. Good width, good height and good airflow which was more important than anything in our hot & humid climate.
I also prefer a "square" versus "rounded" top rail on my gates. I find my horses are not tempted to fit, or try to fit their necks in that smaller opening.
I gave you a link to a place by me so you have some reference of cost.
lakeland.craigslist.org/grq/6061938036.html
Click through the pictures and you can see what I was referring to as they have "square" and "round" gates stacked on top of each other.
So, I spent some of your money and poo-pooed some other expenses as redundant and not "must-have" to get you going...
Seriously, the tractor would be a purchase not put off if me.
Add a bucket loader, bush hog {not finish mower!}, post hole digger with 9" and 12" auger if you need to sink many corner posts..
Between 30 - 40 horsepower. 4WD...a must have to me.
Many "packages" come with a box blade... your bucket can do much the same job as a box blade...opt out for the auger/post hole digger instead!
Google "tractor packages" with a brand you like. Prices come up quick along with financing "deals" available...
Add a length of chain, heavy tow chain with hooks, .. we use for so many tasks. I bought ours in Rural King actually.
Easy to yank posts out of the ground with that set-up and no wear & tear to your back...we set the posts in too that were to heavy for me to handle.
So, what we learned when we went looking for farm tractors...
Only Kubota is made in the USA today. No other brand including John Deere is made here anymore.
Sounds trivial till you break a part and it takes 6 months to arrive from the overseas factory...down time!
Near every company offers 0% financing for 5 years on their equipment. Sometimes it is worth buying new, no problems and a warranty.
Just some ideas....
I love to spend others money...
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Post by ladymcts on Apr 26, 2017 17:24:44 GMT
Tractor - So maybe this is still me just not fully understanding all the ways I would use a tractor. But financing is also a huge part of my decision. It seems right now as if the earliest I'll be brining horses in will be July, possibl late July. Even if I close in June, I want to get the fencing taken care of, and I have a week of vacation in July, so I think it would be smarter to board them until end of July. So by that point it seems like summer is nearly over, and I will have been having someone else do mowing up to that point, so the main things I would use a tractor for would be moving hay, manure, and . I know I would not be doing my own post hole work. And I have three friends who all have properties 5-10 acres each, and all without tractors. They hire work from neighbors when needed. So I'm thinking that I want to let the dust settle with finances from the house purchase first, before I go signing up for another vehicle payment right away. If I end up pleasantly surprised over the winter with no unexpected expenses, then I would hope maybe by Spring I iwll have my horse trailer paid off which will free up almost $300/mo for a tractor. In the meantime, I got thinking about MAYBE doing a used ATV with an attachable manure cart and plow as being a low budget way of having a little extra powered help around the farm without signing up for that big tractor immediately. I would only do this well after the house purchase is done and I have a better idea of what liquid cash I will have on hand. Is any of that making sense? I also don't want to skimp on a cheap used for undepowered tractor in 2017 because I don't have the funding, and just end up needing to upgrade\replace in 2018 anyway. |
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Post by horselover4life on Apr 26, 2017 21:29:15 GMT
It makes sense...truly it does.
But, you knew there was a but... but till we bought a tractor of our own and now have it "at our disposal 24/7" you don't realize how much of a labor saver it is. Your friends haven't figured it out yet either.
We have a 30 hp Kubota loader with bush hog, box blade and post hole digger. No trailer needed as my hubby does maintenance or I will call the dealer and he moves it for me for $25 r/t..
Your horse trailer payment is nearly what your payment would be for a loader tractor with all the implements financed together. The tractor loader itself is relatively cheap, the implements cost $.
You realize that once your pasture starts to grow, only way to keep weeds at bay is either have it "fed" weed control {usually a weed/feed product} or mow... and actually it is both.
Right now our grass is not growing, not one inch from lack of rain...but weeds are growing like crazy.
I must mow this weekend to take down the weeds.
My neighbor has a COPD horse and the weeds give him 10x the grief of breathing..stupid weeds! We share our pastures so keeping her field in good condition also really benefits me.
Before we bought the tractor she paid for bushhogging $450. Springtime, summer and again in fall to keep the weeds down...adds up. She has 4 acres to mow... Going rate to bushhog by me is $125 an acre.
So, I now use the tractor to take the garbage to the roadside for p/u...no longer putting smelly pails in my car nor having leaking bags of trash stink up our car or truck.
I've gotten really lazy...
So far in the first month or so of owning your place...I can see a $$ handout to others of several hundred for just mowing and maybe sinking a few posts. Possibly closer to a thousand paid out... 
Myself, I would put that to owning not giving someone else extra pocket change +.
You can always "rent" the labor force and if it's your equipment have say-so of how projects are completed to your satisfaction. 
I truly understand where you are coming from wanting to be solvent financially, but think that tractor would be one of my first purchases for a variety of reasons.
If you own acreage and you will....it is also a tax write-off.
Talk to your tax-preparer about that.
Regardless of any of this discussion, I am so happy for you....
Something else checked off the bucket list....and getting to bring the boys home too. 
Wait till you see the savings on that one...
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Post by horselady on Apr 29, 2017 0:31:28 GMT
Congrats on the purchase of your own farmette.
after reading all that hl4l has said and very well i might add.. i can only add go slow.. do not try to do all in one year. having horses home is an ongoing repair.. replace and redo.
my son has a quad with a plow and why not allow it to pull a manure spreader.. BUT i have had horses on my place and i do not have one, just pile up the poop and sell it or give it away. I have a club car .. it is like a golf cart but heavier and it has a dump bed on it.. and heavy tread tires.. and i use it to haul anything .. used ones on craigs list are the way to go.
if you electric the fence than the large horses should respect it.. as for the tposts.. well why not contact a tennis club or golf course with tennis courts and ask them if you can buy the old tennis balls.. and use that for the tops..
as for the barn.. bring in water at least two spigots one outside near the fence and one inside the barn.. and electric also to the paddock.. for heaters..
the inside of the barn.. build your stalls and a room for grain and tack.
make the doors and aisles large enough for the truck to enter . at least 8 feet wide..
when you have a chance how about posting some photos.. so we can see what you have
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Post by ladymcts on Apr 30, 2017 18:24:36 GMT
Thanks for the congratulations! Tax preparer - good point ... so far I've still only been using Turbotax to do my finances. It helped me even thru having a rental property. But I think now with one house being rented out and obtaining a farm, maybe I better be talking to someone who can actually advise me instead of step me thru tax forms. Go slow - Yes, I remember a long time ago being introduced to the idea of picking just one big project each year. Because if you never pick any big projects, the place will never ever be improved. But if you try to take on too many, you get in over your head too fast. I think it was probably "the other forum" where I read that. :-) T-post toppers - Yes, just the other day I saw a property that used old tin cans as their toppers, so there are definitely ways to save money there! But the plastic ones don't seem too expensive, will probably do that. No room for stalls in current barn. Photos - here they are (they were in the first post), including some close-ups of the fencint. s107.photobucket.com/user/lady_mcse/library/FarmI got to talk with someone on Friday about fencing. She's done plenty of fencing herself and has been somewhat of a general contrator for a while. So she's willing to come out and offer advice based on what she finds. She kept talking about high tensile wire and how great it is. So maybe I might go that route. I tried asking at Rural King about fencing contractors and that was a bust. The gal I asked looked like I was from mars. She rolled her eyes a little bit and told me that the bulletin board was at the back of the store. On the bulletin board they had only 3 flyers about upcoming events in the area ... it was NOT full of business cards and things like I would expect. There's a lumber yard nearby and another rural king I can check out. Another thing that happened on Friday... I was driving with this friend and we got to see some of that "Centaur" fencing in disarray. I don't know how old the stuff was we were looking at, and it was on a property that was abandoned (an old feed store that closed down 2 years ago). So it's safe to say that it has not been maintained for 2 years at least. Anyway, the white Centaur fencing had grown all mossy green and started to sag, looked positively terrible. This was good for me to see, because I'm typically of the mind that if you pay a lot for something it must be good, right? (I must shake this bad habit of mine!!!) I went to the national clydesdale sale on Friday and was able to pick up some stuff at the auction. So now I've got a few things like trash barrels, poop scooping shovels, manure forks, brooms, etc. Basically I kept going for functional stuff that I know I will use. |
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Post by horselady on Apr 30, 2017 19:56:50 GMT
We used high tensil and it was great for 15 years. than with the weather it became compromised. sooo we replaced the wire around the paddocks and near the house with electro braid.. electric.. it bounces back and does not cut the horse if he is wrapped up in it.. and since it stretches ,, trust me ,, with out it being plugged in they can and will walk under it. over it or thru it.. www.zarebasystems.com/articles/best-horse-fencing-optionsthese are your choices. with good and bad about all of them.. while you are looking for an accountant.. than you will also need insurance. one for the house and it's contents and one that is separate for the barn.. because unless the barn is specified with a value .. if anything happens like fire or wind damage it might not be covered for replacement value.. only a percentage of the main dwelling.. do not forget hoses for water and sprayers, and feeders for horses.. and a broom.. and lawn rakes .. to replace those posts perhaps a post pounder.. and gloves for your hands.. and lots of bug spray,, |
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Post by ladymcts on May 1, 2017 22:12:29 GMT
Yes, my mortgage people are insisting that I pick an insurer ... I guess regular old allstate won't do?
I asked my banker who she recommended, and she seemed like she didn't want to be in that position, but gave a name anyway.
Then I asked my friend who knows about fencing, and she gave the same company the banker had. So that's two "votes" for country financial.
"Lawn rake" - that's a new one on me!
Post pounder - I almost bought one the other day but stopped myself ... no point buying stuff before I move in, and just have to pay the movers. It's tough, because I wanna buy. :-)
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Post by horselover4life on May 1, 2017 23:32:17 GMT
When is the closing date???
I so want to offer a  ...
I would suggest not buying anything till after you close...
Till then you have no place to go with it. mini-graphics-smileys-002150
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Post by ladymcts on May 2, 2017 12:58:34 GMT
Bank hasn't given a closing yet. Contract said 'before May 25.' But bank is warning me it may be sometime in June. :-(
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Post by ladymcts on May 8, 2017 22:20:24 GMT
Well, things are progressing ... Bank was making me jump thru some extra hoops I wasn't expecting so took a while to straighten that out Spoke with insurance guy on Friday, made my head swim, but sounds like he knows what he's doing (it's thru the farm bureau) Got my downpayment money transferred today so it'll be ready for closing whenever I have a date Got a call from my agent and there were some snafus that have gotten ironed out Freaked out about limited Internet options, but found one today that may work better than I had hoped (fingers crossed) So still waiting on closing date! Curiously, the insurance guy said I should do fine without a tractor for the first year if I go ahead and pay someone else to do the mowing and haying this first year, and get myself a dolly for the round bales to go behind my truck. Well duh, I forgot about those things! There are a few varieties out there. he asked me if it's small round bales or large and I have no idea. He named 600lbs uup to 2000lbs, and again I have no idea. Here's a couple of the hay dolly type things. www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAICrNsv0CQ - tumblebug www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHJAkXBDVgI - 2Ez One Any thoughts on this Kubota tractor? I'm totally NOT in a position to actually get it, not even going to inquire on it. Just curious if it seems like one in the range of what I might possibly want to get. carbondale.craigslist.org/grd/6103463890.htmlThanks! |
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Post by horselover4life on May 9, 2017 10:32:35 GMT
OK...so some feedback.
Round bales by me average 5' high and 5'wide, some larger...
Lightest in weight in 600, but most average 800 - 1000 pounds and some really big ones are heavier.
It has to do with how tightly they are rolled. That in turn has to do with how "fresh" they are inside and how much moisture was able to invade or escape during rolling.
So, my Kubota is a "L" series.
I think the "B" series is older, but about the same size and ability category.
By picture it looks OK.
I would want to know how old the thing is, how and where it was stored, who serviced it and see service records.
Things I like are the HST transmission. Means when you take your foot off the gas pedal the tractor stops moving, period!
Cat 1 attachment is most common and allows you to buy, borrow from neighbors what you need and don't have.
Bucket is how wide? Think it should be 5' and that is also width for all "tow" behind implements. HP is not enough to do 6' without straining the engine or making it scream to run them properly.
Need to know range of lift arms for the bucket and the weight amounts able to lift at full height and at 1/2 way point {has a fancy name}...
We rarely go to full arm height as it takes out the center of gravity and makes you top heavy and a flip-over risk...if we extend full-height we are not moving.
I think these are turf tires...means they are grass friendly and will not tear apart the lawn as fast, however you don't have "bite" like you do with farm treaded tires, aka agricultural tire. We have "turf tire" tread on our tractor, never been stuck and I've put it in some deep, deep sand so far.
I would not buy a tractor without 4WD, period. We do use it when grading and even mowing at times..
So, a nice looking tractor. Price...eh!
Go back to craigslist and do a search for farm tractor packages...
OR again search for local farm tractor dealers... they have pricing online many of them.
Our tractor with loader, brand new... 30 HP, HST transmission, 5' bucket, Cat 1...just under $14,000.00
0% financing and a 5 year warranty that covers anything going wrong it is repaired, replaced for free. Normal maintenance is not covered but "BIG" stuff is.
Today, new tractors have DEF fluid systems on them. IF you know diesels you know what a pain that can be so going somewhat older gets you away from that emissions system.
I would have someone qualified on tractors look it over if serious very closely and check out that all parts are straight, not bent and working including that rear PTO, no gross leaks and all hoses are not crimped, kinked or dry-rotted. Engine is sound and had good care.
Hours are decent depending upon age.. like anything you can get a gently, well taken care of machine or one cleaned up and was beat upon...this one appears good to the picture eye seen.
So, now your head is spinning  ...
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Post by ladymcts on May 9, 2017 15:56:36 GMT
900-1200lbs per bale were always the numbers I had heard before
It's fun for me listening\reading from someeone who is "geeked out" about a tractor ... for now I do feel like my head is spinning and that I know so very little. IT's hard for me to get excited about buying one just yet because I want to get thru the actual sale of the property first. But I've been casually watching the Craigslist farm listings just to get a sense of what's out there. I definitely WILL NOT purchase a tractor thru Craigslist. I've been burned too many times on thinking I'm getting a good deal and it's turned out to be just someone else's lemon.
But looking thru the ads gives me a sense of things at least, and reading your response is totally awesome.
I have DEF for my truck and I don't think it's a big deal or a pain. What's so bad about it? (Or i should say it's not been bad once they fixed the friggin' sensors that were disabling me!)
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Post by horselover4life on May 9, 2017 17:07:46 GMT
DEF ...
This is newer in the tractors....so "bugs" and kinks to work out is happening.
What you went through till they figured out your issues I believe is what my tractor dealer was saying without saying..
Don't forget that tractor dealers also do trade-ins often...and warranties offered!
I know from listening to my husband {diesel HD truck mechanic} he has made mention that now years after introducing the DEF systems to the big rigs they are finally getting it right, not all the time but much better, more reliable and now fixable systems...
Farm tractor DEF systems were recently new additions and my tractor dealer said many unknowns his dealership was facing about this.
We bought a "new" tractor but one that was still pre-DEF. That also gave us a few more HP in our engine or something like that.
All I know is our tractor runs perfect, does the job it is needed to do and is reliable every-time.
When we went to purchase we would of bought used but prices were ridiculous for junk or what we wanted just was not available.
For us though, going new and 0% financing was to good to pass up a deal.
Not having to come up with that lump sum was the best...with no interest and I have the tractor paying a little at a time...perfect!!
Your ag rep is probably right that you can do the first year tractor free.
You will though need to contract and do at someone else pace and convenience tasks you want done.
I still though would be making this a top priority for your farm.
Between grass and alone, forget the fencing and improving land you will want to be doing the tractor is going to get much use...
That is year-round usefulness...
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Valhallanite
Junior Member
Dutchess County, New York
Posts: 826 
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Post by Valhallanite on May 14, 2017 23:35:42 GMT
Beautiful Farm, Congratulations!
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mingiz
Junior Member
Los Lunas, NM
Posts: 3,320
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Post by mingiz on May 17, 2017 15:43:13 GMT
Nice find!!  As for round bale hauling you will need a decent size tractor to handle them. Get a bale spike for the back of the tractor. Using a front end loader depending on tractor will tip with too much weight up front. Spike is a lot cheaper and you can handle it by yourself. As far as replacing the fence. If your going to go with treated post. I have always used landscape ties. Cheaper but just as good as a 4x4. I would start out putting wood post and have 5 t-post in between. The wood post will make the line stronger. That way you can replace them as you can afford too. I used t-post 6ft but I didn't need to go as deep. I also used field fencing. With 2 strands of electric on the inside so that the horses wouldn't use the fence as a scratching post. I bought my supplies when it was on sale especially the wire which ran about 130 for 48x660ft roll. T-Post can be bought in packs of 5. A little cheaper but yet strong. As for getting squared up stalls you can dig a post close to the barn wall and then a solid board wall on the back side and slatted boards on sides. Just a few things I did. Also the best investment I made for round bales and waste was the Hay Hut. Costly but well worth the money. You can drag it with tractor. You can also get some one to mow and cut hay off the one field. And split the yield with them. The place looks nice. Once you get it your way. I'm sure it will be a nice farm. I know of all the hard work it takes to make one. Congrats  we will read the adventures of ladymcts farm life. |
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That is a good thing!
.... the work begins and you haven't even signed on the line yet.
Removal some way, some how
...
...
we will read the adventures of ladymcts farm life.