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Post by dickel on May 11, 2016 22:39:38 GMT
I thought about buying a landscape rake and removing half the tines. After pricing them and finding tines for 4 bucks each I decided to just build one to go on my blade frame. I will need to let things dry out a bit before I try it out. My small bucket on the loader tractor will not break it up and it takes a lot of back blading with the bucket to drag the beading out of the shelters. I hope I can drag smaller piles out to make it easier to load in the spreader.
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mistersmom
Junior Member
Abita Springs, LA
Posts: 3,749
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Post by mistersmom on May 12, 2016 1:43:53 GMT
You certainly are very handy!
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Post by horselover4life on May 12, 2016 13:36:30 GMT
Quite a bit of savings compared to what these cost new or used!!
We need a pasture drag, the chain kind and found pricing them is ridiculous in cost... So my hubby is working a design that will track straight behind the tractor using old chain link fence we have... It is not pretty but functional we need....
Any ideas dickel how to go about something like that?
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Post by dickel on May 12, 2016 16:41:26 GMT
If I was making a drag from a piece of chain link fence I would use a piece of angle iron or channel iron the width of the fence behind the tractor. I would attach three foot long pieces of chain between the fence and the angle iron. One in the center and one each at the ends of the angle iron. Depending on the width of the fence I would attach two pieces of chain in about a foot or a foot and a half or even more in from the ends connected together on a clevis to hook to the tractor. This would keep it directly behind the tractor on any thing you would pull it with. I would keep the width of the clevis chains on the angle iron narrow enough so when turning you do not catch the tractor rear tires. I would want the drag back from the tractor at least a foot from the tractor rear tire when the tractor is turned 90º. You can never actually turn 90º when pulling the drag. If you need to turn sharp it would take a straight chain rather than a clevis where the two chains from the angle iron would connect with a long drawbar on the tractor. Lay every thing out on the ground behind the tractor before cutting, bolting or welding. This is how I would go about it knowing that it is not the only way. The old horse drags used a wood 2"X 4" rather than angle iron. The new tractor drags used channel iron. A 2"X 4" would be fine using carriage bolts to fasten chain. That might be easier for you. When I was a kid I turned to short with a spring tooth drag and it was up on the rear tractor tire before I could get stopped. Dad was not happy. I was eight or nine at the time.
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Post by horselover4life on May 12, 2016 17:21:19 GMT
Thanks dickel.... I'll let him read your suggestion.
I think my hubby has something similar in mind with what I see laid out on the grass... Now he just needs to weld it together or bolt it....probably bolt first so he can make any adjustments before making it permanent. Adventures2 ....
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Post by horselady on May 13, 2016 1:10:38 GMT
You are a talented person and as long as it saves money and gets the job done.. all the better and hl4l we used a piece of 8 x8 like railroad tie. and wrapped the chain around hat and attached the chain link fence .. and as D said use the chain around the two ends to a y and than one piece to the tractor.
no welding just bolts and nuts and chain.
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